Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths

Author	dc.contributor.author	Le Roux, Jacobus
Admission date	dc.date.accessioned	2010-01-27T20:31:59Z
Available date	dc.date.available	2010-01-27T20:31:59Z
Publication date	dc.date.issued	2008-08
Cita de ítem	dc.identifier.citation	COASTAL ENGINEERING Volume: 55 Issue: 9 Pages: 701-703 Published: AUG 2008	en_US
Identifier	dc.identifier.issn	0378-3839
Identifier	dc.identifier.other	10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.003
Identifier	dc.identifier.uri	https://repositorio.uchile.cl/handle/2250/125262
Abstract	dc.description.abstract	Airy waves have a sinusoidal profile in deep water that can be modeled by a time series at any point x and time t, given by eta(x,t)=(H-o/2) cos[2 pi x/L-o-2 pi t/T-w], where H-o is the deepwater height, L-o is the deepwater wavelength, and T-w is the wave period. However, as these waves approach the shore they change in form and dimension so that this equation becomes invalid. A method is presented to reconstruct the wave profile showing the correct wavelength, wave height, wave shape, and displacement of the water surface with respect to the still water level for any water depth.	en_US
Lenguage	dc.language.iso	en	en_US
Publisher	dc.publisher	ELSEVIER	en_US
Keywords	dc.subject	SHALLOW-WATER	en_US
Título	dc.title	Profiles of fully developed (Airy) waves in different water depths	en_US
Document type	dc.type	Artículo de revista